side by side salmon

February 17, 2010 by Matt Horn

Matt is a chef at Amuse Bistro in Shawnigan Lake.

Have you ever tasted farmed and wild salmon off the same plate? The difference is astonishing. When I was the chef at Masthead Restaurant, my shellfish supplier dropped off a sample of organic farmed salmon from Tofino. The previous week a commercial fisherman gave me some Silver Brites Chum. I decided to do a taste test and eat them side-by-side.

The difference in taste surprised me. The Chum tasted clean and crisp while the farmed salmon tasted mirky and dirty. Dirty is a strange way to describe food but in this case it is apt. I felt I could taste the fish pen and stale water.

I trusted the commercial shellfish supplier that gave me the organic farmed salmon and so I decided to investigate the situation. I figured that it might be a good product. I discussed the matter with a friend of mine in Tofino who is a multi-generation fisherman. He is the rogue in his family, the only one who limits his salmon fishing to sport rather then commercial purpose. I quizzed him about the organic salmon farm.

He explained that the organic farm is doing some innovative things. For starters, they are raising Pacific rather then Atlantic salmon. They also have six pens but only use four at a time in order to allow the environment to regenerate itself after the fish are harvested. However, my friend believes the organic farm is nonetheless harming the environment in much the same manner as traditional fish farms because the salmon pens remain open. Fully enclosed pens are the only sure fire way to ensure that the marine environment around the salmon farms does not get damaged.

Political stuff aside what it comes down to for me is I don’t want to serve a fish that doesn’t taste good. Taking salmon off the menu wasn’t an option so I decided to continue to serve the wild salmon.

In case you decide not to eat salmon here is an out of the ordinary mussel recipe.

Battered & Deep Fried Smoked Mussels

2 doz smoked mussels

2 eggs

¼ cup chopped green onions

1 clove minced garlic

1 teaspoon of salt and pepper

1 Tablespoon lemon juice

½ teaspoon chilli flakes

oil for frying

Mix eggs and flour to make a thick batter.
Then add the rest of the ingredients.
Heat oil up to 365^oF.
With a large soup spoon, place a heaping ball of mussel in batter in the oil.
Let it cook until the ball floats to the surface of the oil and is golden brown.
Remove and drain on paper towels and season with salt.
Serve with your favourite aioli.